I have used a converter power plug which is used to convert overseas plugs to convert to Australian plugs and it works great. I’m connected to my wifi and cooking.They cost about $10 each from Travel shops and Bunnings.Hope this helps you as I had the same problem.
Bill
good idea.
im using one like this:
[https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1meAVPXXXXXXzXpXXq6xXFXXXd%2Fsales-of-the-two-oblique-flat-feet-Australia-travel-adapter-plug-conversion-adapter-Australian-regulatory-interface.jpg&f=1&nofb=1]
works a treat.
I’m afraid travel adapter for converting amp is not legal and safe. You risk explosion and fire in the house and will not be able to claim any insurance. You should use something like ampfibian from Bunnings.
I’ve measured that the oven uses up to 2770w on the initial firmware when both top and bottom elements are used, it doesn’t correctly limit the power to the top element when you use both the top and bottom elements.
Once I have updated it to the 1.1.10 firmware it correctly limits the power draw.
I.e. do not let it heat up until you update the firmware on it.
Once I updated it the light flickers. I suspect it’s to do with how it limits the power usage
Hi Paulo
I hope you can provide instruction to us about to update the firmware
Is it something you did via the app?
That all sounds good to me.
Concerns would be will the delivery driver also do a pick up and return? Mine arrived with TOLL and I don’t think they will do a pick up.
I also got the impression they will only be replacing the plug
Seems to me that recalling the entire unit to solve a plug issue would be unnecessary.
No doubt the original is a moulded onto cable plug - so one option would be to have an electrician change the PowerPoint for a 15 amp - they have the same dimensions as 10 amp (yes 10 amp plugs will work in a 15 amp PP) or second best have an electrician change the plug for something like this
- but really the OP’s own measurements seem to indicate that the choice of a 15 amp plug made by Anova - is not far off the mark for what it should be - they may well be in the clear.
I’ve had a response as follows:
Thank you for reaching out sorry about the situation.
The oven is 10amp but has the wrong plug. We’re evaluating solutions and are hoping to have something soon.
We’ll update you as soon as we can.
Easy fix. Cut the plug off and put a 10 amp plug on. Most circuits are at least 16 Amp. Any problems and the fuse will trip out.
Nope. The oven needs to be earthed.
mine is earthed. the adaptor has an earth pin that does connect to the ovens earth pin
Hey all. We are aware of the issue and are working on fixes! Hang tight and we’ll make this right!
My wife has received this update:
Sorry for the delay. We’re investigating solutions and figuring out logistics.
The oven itself is wired correctly, it just has the wrong plug. The oven will work with adapters, we’re just making sure we can send the correct ones.
I don’t like the idea of an adapter. It’s a point of failure. At 10 amps, it would have to be a very high quality.
They should either swap with a unit with the correct plug, or send over a sparky to swap the plug.
The changelog notes on 1.1.10 don’t mention this fix.
Hi Paulo
How did you measure the wattage? Could there be room for error? It seems odd for an appliance to be able to draw more power than rated, also that firmware limits the power draw.
Cheers
Where’s many ways firmware can limit the power output. Looking at the specs,
Top Heating: 1600 W
Bottom Heating: 700 W
Rear Heating: 1600 W
Steam Boiler: 1200 W
This device could draw 5100W if all elements are turned on full. Depending on the cooking mode, the firmware will set the output levels for each element. It needs to stay below 2400W to limit the maximum current 10 Amps.
It even possible that the device monitors it own current (but unlikely) to limit high power modes.
I guess I would be more comfortable knowing that the device itself was prevented from drawing more than 2400W / 10 amps through an internal circuit breaker and not just the firmware as a layer of redundancy. Who’s to say the firmware doesn’t go on the fritz somehow.
I also pre-ordered Precision Oven in September as was having a new kitchen installed and allocated an area for it so inconspicuous. Mine arrived the other day and I advised Anova I was not even going to unpackaged in case pin was incorrect which, after reading these comments, makes me reasonably sure it will be the 15A plug. I do not intend to pay an electrician to change the plug and feel with all the problems it might be easier to return the oven - trouble is it leaves me to find something of the same dimensions etc to fill the allocated spot. Cannot believe the fiasco and do wonder if it is worth the hassle. Sure hope if this is ever solved the results are worth it. Might be easier to just keep using my original Anova.
I have mine. Put a 10 Amp plug on the 10 Amp oven. Works perfectly once I worked out that the front panel has sensor that disabled it if you are holding it :). Makes great roast chicken. Great TriTip beef sous vide. Great baguettes. Superb.stesmed then roasted vegetables. If you are not confident to change the plug buy the Bunnings converter or get an electrician to do it for you. Worth every penny.
I agree and ANOVA have replied to me that they will not reimburse cost of an electrician. They have also sent out an email with options for resolution which differ from the long term solution told to me by one their “Customer Success Associates”
I could foolishly assume you all have the update but if not this is what was sent
From ANOVA update
- We can send you a 15A plug to 10A plug adapter
- We can send you a 15A plug to 10A plug adapter, and then exchange your oven when the 10A version of the Oven is available (current ETA is mid-May, 2021)
- We can issue you a full refund and send you a return label to send your oven back to our warehouse
- We can issue you a refund of $15 AUD if you’ve already purchased your own 15A to 10A adapter
Please also take note that ANOVA has been avoiding answering my questions about warranty being voided if we try and “fix” the oven ourselves. I’m wary of this especially as they won’t answer.